Drills/Tips

The links below offer a number of advanced drills to help develop your skills:

GO TO

THE WALL

Going to practice and working hard when you are there can make you a good lacrosse player. Going to the wall on your own will make you a great lacrosse player.

Wall Ball”
Jan 6, 2004

The single most effective training technique that was implemented in my game, and the one that I preach first and foremost to my players as a coach, is one of the oldest. “WALL BALL” is the one aspect of training that can help a player develop and be the sure handed ball control player, regardless of position, that every team needs. by Paul Carcaterra
Paul Carcaterra is widely regarded as one of the top youth lacrosse teachers in the USA. he is a former captain and All-American at Syracuse. He plays for the MLL New Jersey Pride. Carcaterra also is co-director of No Limit Lacrosse Camps(which he co-directs with MLL All-Star John Gagliardi).As this wonderful sport evolves, both from an equipment and training standpoint, we are all exposed to new ideas about how to become better coaches and players. I have been involved with the sport of lacrosse for 21 years, at the youth/high school (Yorktown), college (Syracuse), international (Team England), and professional levels(NJ Pride). There were many innovative ideas that helped me become a strong player, and now a high school (Fox Lane) coach in Westchester County, NY. However, the single most effective training technique that was implemented in my game, and the one that I preach first and foremost to my players as a coach, is one of the oldest. “WALL BALL” is the one aspect of training that can help a player develop and be the sure handed ball control player, regardless of position, that every team needs. I look back to my childhood, and remember buying into this system that was preached to me from people with names such Gait, Maracheck, Zulberti, and Nelson. Committing yourself to 20 minutes a day, yes only 20 minutes will improve your stick handling, hand eye coordination, passing, catching, shooting, fakes, and trickery. The beauty of “wall ball” is that you do not have to rely on anyone else to get better. Just you and the wall. There are five phases of “wall ball” below that I feel can benefit everyone reagardless of position. Find a wall in your area (it could be the side of a school, gym, handball court, etc) that is at least 15 yards long and ten feet high.Phase 1-Quick Stick/Rapid Fire: Line up around 3-5 yards from the wall. First, 50 right hand throw and catches without cradling. After completing 50 right hand throw and catches, do the same with your left. Did you notice I didn’t mention starting with your strong hand. With “wall ball” anything you do right, you follow-up left. This stage is great because it allows you to work on quick sticks, hand eye coordination, and one timing. You will become better about getting rid of the ball in a timely fashion without even noticing it by practicing this stage.

Phase 2-12 Yard Passing: Line up 12 yards from the wall. Start with 30 right hand throws, which will come back to you on one bounce. When you retrieve the ball from the one bounce, cradle once, then follow-up with the next throw. When you have completed 30 right handed throws, follow-up with 30 left.

Phase 3-Throwing & Catching On The Run: This may be my favorite and most helpful stage. First I start line up 5-7 yards from the wall on the far left side of the wall. I begin this stage with the stick in my right hand and while I am running alongside the wall (towards the other end), I throw and catch the ball on the run. The important part is to throw the ball on the run and not always catching the ball stick side. I like to do this during every stage. Do you always get a pass stick side? No. Therefore, in your training you should throw the ball against the wall and catch it cross hand (or across your face). After I run one length of the wall, I run back to the other end throwing lefty (doing the same thing I did with my right). Keep repeating these steps. This stage should be done for about 5-7 minutes.

Phase 4-Shooting: Line-up around 12-15 yards from the wall. Get in proper shooting formation (hands loose, three quarter/overhand motion, snapping of the hips, and following threw) mark a few places on the wall with tape to aim at. Shoot at about 80% velocity, having the ball come back to you with one bounce. Depending on where you aim, the ball may take bounces that aren’t the same, so you have to work a little bit. Start with 25 right, and follow up with about 25 left.

Phase 5-Trickery: This stage is fun. This is a great time to practice behind the backs (make sure you are not following threw too much. Step in the direction you are aiming, and the behind the back motion is only about a foot, with the head of your stick ending up hitting the top part of your arm near your shoulder). Around the world, threw the legs, and any other creative stuff can be incorporated at this time. I would leave around 5 minutes for this stage. I am a firm believer that this stage is important. If you can pull this stage off (and only if you are mastering the other 4 stages should you try this stage), it is an indication that you have a strong comfort level with your stick and great hand eye coordination. It is also a stage that can help you in terms pulling something off in a game that is nice to watch and necessary. There are times in a game when a behind the back is the only option.

So there it is, five stages of ‘Wall Ball.” Get a radio with your favorite beats, a snow cap and duck boots if there is snow on the ground, and do what you have to do to get out at least five days a week for 20 minutes/per day. Don’t let the competition pass you by. No excuses!

*To learn more about Paul Carcaterra and the No Limit Lacrosse Camp (which he co-directs with MLL All-Star John Gagliardi) please visit their website- http://www.nolimitlacrosse.com/ *

Coach Dwyer’s Offensive Musts

Lefty 12-11	Righty 12-1

Hand position for catching and shooting. When shooting, use a clock as a reference for stick position. Right handed shooter the head of the stick should be as close as possible to 12 o’clock—we will accept 1 o’clock but not two-three-four.

Left handed shooter the head of the stick should be as close as possible also to 12 o’clock —we will accept 11 o’clock but not ten-nine-eight.

Catching

Soft hands, look ball into stick. ( Little league – you’re a bowl of jelly—stressing softness and give by you the individual and the ball is a baby bird or egg—stressing give and softness with the stick). Top hand up high on the tape mark. Remember you have to catch it first before you feed it or shoot it. When receiving the ball, always move your feet. It helps when the upper body and lower body work together.

Move your feet:

1. - It helps in catching bad passes
  - It’s good for feeding a give and go
  - It helps with a quick shot or quick stick– it speeds up the exchange
  - When receiving the ball, if the defenseman over plays, you can split him or roll him. Remember an unbroken down defenseman is an offensive advantage.

Always, every time, a must – When receiving the ball, look back for a give and go and at about the same time look inside (crease area). Don’t be so quick to give up the ball before you do the above two. You score inside around the crease not in the parking lot.

Always when receiving a pass – step to the ball, not the cage

-round off your approach to set your feet up, so you’re stepping toward your target

In your mind, if you try to catch something 65-75 mph and up, and you’re getting ready to shoot, 80 mph and up, that leads to one tight–stiff body. The thought process in everything you’re about to do is based on power and speed leaving very little softness in your hands.

-Tight shots – The whole tight shot process (close to the crease) should be soft. You must be soft when catching and soft when shooting the short accurate inside shot. The shot you want to take in this situation. You have to be able to slow down the situation and play because the inside crease game can be a blur at times.

-Shots from afar – This should be mentally done in two parts. First, in catching the ball– train the mind and body to be soft. The second part – kick start your upper and lower body parts so they are working with and not against each other. This will give you the power for a stronger shot which will be needed for a shot from a distance.

**Tape Marks

Two tape marks on the stick (one a glove hand up from bottom of the stick and one a glove hand down from the head). Don’t worry about exposing the bottom of the stick. If you cradle close to 12 o’clock it will never be a problem. It will help create better stick mechanics. You will develop more of a snap shot and have snap on your feeds. Remember that if your hand is at the bottom of your stick it is considered an extension of your stick, so it can be checked anyway.

*90% of your players – There is obviously a stronger hand. This above theory helps dramatically in developing the weaker hand. Encourage tighter shots that will be more accurate. With the loss of velocity, placement counts. You should not take 12 yd and above shots with your weak hand anyway. But at least the stronger mechanics will encourage them to go to the goal.

Carrying the Ball

One handed – 12 o’clock

Two handed – 12 or 1 o’clock right handed – 12 or 11 o’clock left handed

One hand cradle :

Top hand slides from tape mark to plastic head when carrying. Keeping the stick under the chin or in your ear.

When carrying:

1. - Look at the crease
  - Stay big – Run with your head up at all times. When you hunch over, you make it easy for them to go over your head and you will also have a tendency of being a low feeder.
  - Keep your body between your man and your stick. One handed cradle – get the other arm out to protect the stick and cradle within (The problem with two handed cradling attackman – the defender can pick up the lower hand because it is an extension of the stick). Lifts are very common today and most effective by good defensemen.
  - Always have the same look on your face whether you’re going to the cage or looking to feed. Some people look down when going to the cage while dodging (easy to get doubled). And, some just troll with their head up only looking to feed.
  - Show them you’re looking either to feed or to shoot —- instead of just one. (“poker face”).
  - Change your direction when driving the cage by moving in and out making it more difficult for the defensemen to time his check.The defenders are too good today to be running on a straight line.The Z drill is a good drill for this. Running on a line with a drop step.When doing this drill with a defender as he follows your drop step you can counter with a split or a roll dodge.
  - Thumb placement when carrying with one hand – keep it by the head with the thumb at 12 o’clock. This prevents your stick from swaying or teetering.(this technique is used by many Canadian players).

Feeding

Feeds – as close to 12 o’clock as possible. They will have more snap on them than a sidearm pass. Side arm passes have a tendency to sail. The cutter can read a 12 o’clock feeder a lot easier than a side arm feeder. For side arm passes you never know when it is coming out of the stick.The12 o’clock feeder will just bring about better results. Step toward your target with your front foot when feeding. To relax your look when feeding, throw to his stick side area in a zone as big as a garbage can lid or cover. Don’t look at a tight spot like the throat area of his stick. This theory can soften things up and give you the confidence to put the ball in there.

Shooting

§ In this game, for some dumb reason, they give you the ball back when you miss your shot and get to the end line first. So Shoot the Ball!! The cage is 6×6. It is meant to be scored on and not defended. When the game was invented, they did not have engineered sticks. If we invented the game knowing what we do today, it would probably be 5×5 not 6×6

§ Shooting—Yes, there is an art and science to it.

Example: two players that play the same position both athletic with a build of a college athlete. But, at the end of the season one player has 8 goals and the other has 58 goals.

You just don’t shoot the ball at the cage—you must put some math to it.

§ When you set yourself up to shoot, the upper and lower parts of your body must work together. As you catch and coil up your body to create torque, the stick goes behind your head for stick protection. Your head acts as a screen on the goalie. (A box lacrosse style) – As you come out of your coil your front foot steps toward your target (baseball mechanics very similar – pitcher’s front foot steps toward catcher’s glove) and your back foot follows through so your center of gravity is falling forward (once again like baseball).

§ Shooting in tight – You don’t need velocity, you need accuracy. So when shooting, the higher your top hand is on the tape mark, the more accurate and quicker the shot. As you get closer to the cage you can start to lose angle so slide your bottom hand up another glove hand. This will give you a better trajectory on your shot.

§ Shots from afar, like dumps up top near the restraining line you need your feet jacked up. As feet are setting up we slide our top hand down for leverage and power.

§ When you catch the ball, to shoot:

§ You watch the ball into your stick. You cannot shoot a ball you don’t catch.

§ Look at your spot. Don’t look where the goalie is, look where the goalie is not. Shoot open space, shoot at the white. (A big hockey theory used by all the greats).

§ Think like a goalie while you’re playing, and if the feed is coming from a certain area, you should be able to almost predict where he will be. So, you now have a good idea where the shot will be going.

§ Shooting from a distance: To relax and soften the look (like feeding) imagine a garbage can lid or cover in the corner you are shooting at and it will all funnel into that zone a lot easier.

§ In tight: Shoot high and just beat the goalie to a spot. Take a little off and be accurate. You have the advantage.

§ From afar: The majority of the time, it’s got to go on the ground. Now you need velocity and speed on your shot.

§ The only time you bounce the ball in tight is when you break in one on one with the goalie.

Dodging

In dodging, you all have a best move so use it and go. A common problem with some players is that they use too many moves (especially fast players) and that is not good. It slows you down and you lose explosiveness. Also at times you tend to roll right back to where you just beat him.

1. Bull dodge – Certain players, due to body size, are better at specific dodges and this is one for the big guy. A bull dodge is a power dodge, a strength dodge. You want to get the power going and keep it going and concentrate on stick protection. Run through the check.

2. Split Dodge – Right hand-right foot: right hand fake misdirection right (head and shoulder fake). Right foot plants with stick right. Then split over to the left side. As you push off of right foot, your left hand receives stick as left foot now touches and accepts the transfer of body weight, throwing the center of gravity to the left side.

3. Face Dodge– A dodge that has lost popularity now that most players go both ways, but still has a place I feel in today’s game. Right-handed player starts right. As he plants his left foot, he swings his stick from right to left as he pushes off his left foot,– he comes back across to his right side of his body with the stick in his right hand as the right foot now hits the ground.

4. Roll Dodge– (Righty) stick in hand, plant left foot, keep body between defenseman and your stick. The exchange from right hand to left should be right down the center of your body. As left hand receives the stick, get right arm out to protect your stick that is now in your left hand. As you come out of your dodge make sure your head is up and around looking to the crease. One handed cradle – protect stick with opposite hand. This free hand cannot be checked or it will lead to a penalty. Again, a two handed cradling attackman’s bottom hand can be checked/lifted because it is an extension of his stick. Keep the stick under your chin.

5. Inside Roll Dodge –

A) Driving inside roll – you must drive your man to the (5 by 5—the island—3 yds above the top of the crease) (right-handed example) at full speed you plant your opposite foot (left) and give a more exaggerated pivot than a conventional roll dodge. Your right foot must step across the mouth of the goal or in the direction of the sideline, not the endline. The stick in the right hand under the chin – as the right foot steps across get into shooting position.

B) Post up inside roll dodge – It’s very common in basketball. When someone matches up on you and is stride for stride with you, as you get about 3 yds above the top of the crease and start backing into your defenseman (right hand) when the defenseman pushes you out you dip your shoulder and step with your right foot across the mouth of the goal step toward the sideline. (sideline not endline).

The above inside roll dodges must be high enough or you will never have angle—the goalie will have it covered.

6. Question mark dodge ?????????

Drive the cage right handed(it can also be done left handed) –plant and pivot step left—two options to read—1 read slide and question mark dodge and hit the X man who now drives the weak side.2- question mark dodge and take a shot.

This is not one of my favorite shots –you must be an accurate shooter for there is little angle.(also most defenseman as you are on one foot push you upfield because at that moment you are vulnerable).

It is important though for attacking the weak side-by hitting the X man.

7. Combination dodges

Combine two dodges.

For example a split dodge with a roll dodge.(use the same technique that was in the above split and roll dodge.

Put three dot cones out in a triangle formation.

Run at the top cone and split dodge it from right to left then roll dodge the second cone from left to right.(alternate what hand you dodge the top cone with).

§ When executing your dodge – You know what it is and when it’s going to happen – He does not. Remember your move will slow you down but hopefully he hesitates enough so that you can get your speed up again and go. Keep your speed.

Offensive Musts

1. Set yourself up in the offense. Don’t be so predictable. Sometimes you get like programmed rats— so every now and then deviate from the mean. If you are on the wing sometimes swing through to keep the defense honest or back cut them. X men – Sneak every now and then. Go with the flow and take what the game gives you.

2. Don’t be lazy off the ball. This is a common problem with middies. They are good with the ball dodging and driving, but when they give the ball up they tend to stand around. A well-balanced lacrosse player is good both with and without the ball.

3 a. Create your own situation:

-Set a pick and remember it’s not always the pick that gets you open. It can also be a defensive breakdown in communication.

-Run your man off the pick. Keep it tight with no air space.

-For every pick, there is a re-roll. A re-roll must be explosive and immediately after they brush off your shoulder. If there is a breakdown and both go to the same side, the pick man can pop and get open.

3 b. Run your man off someone. If your teammates are not helping, run your man off them or their defensemen. Create something even if they picked and did not know it. No defenseman wants to cover someone always moving like a jack rabbit. It’s easy to cover someone standing around.

4. Never get slow played

2 on 1

3 on 2

4 on 3

5 on 4

Force the action and make the defense step up and commit, draw and dump.

Off ball guys slide into soft areas:

A)When your man goes to double, you follow to a soft spot.

B)As the ball moves and your “D” man sluffs off, you must slide into a soft spot to get involved with the offense, because at some point you are considered the farthest man from the ball. Get into passing lanes. Don’t let the defenseman take them away. Remember they are coached and taught to take them away.

5. Run full speed at all times – jogging on cuts – it is just too easy to cover. Jogging with the ball you pose no threat to the inside game. You’ll never create slides. It’s not the guys inside getting open, it’s you going hard and creating indecision or a premature slide. Now you can dump it off. The inside defender pays more attention to you than his man and his man now back-cuts him.

6. Play other sports – Soccer, hockey basketball – all resemble lacrosse. It’s all about migrating to the goal in a funnel-like effect. Give and go, pick and roll, forcing the 2 on 1 the 3 on 2 so you don’t get slow played by the defense. Sliding into soft spots as your defender sluffs in or leaves to help out. All of the above happen in these games. If you want to be a student of the game, watch good girl’s basketball – basketball where they are not slam dunking every shot–like in the men’s game.

7. Sometimes you just have to beat someone. What it all comes down to is someone stepping up and doing their man. Whether it’s someone just taking and beating their man a mismatch, or someone who just keeps hustling until he finally gets open.

GOOD LUCK

link to article http://www.gardencitylacrosse.com/DDCorner/coachDwyerTips.htm